Umami Mart Sake


I'm lucky to have eaten many dinners at the JB House, but few are as special as a recent meal prepared by Matthew Weingarten. Everything was beautifully crafted and well thought out, down to the autumn inspired cocktails made from herb-infused local liqueurs. The locally produced meats were even cured by the restaurant! Weingarten brought in his own slate slabs to plate on, and each was adorned with a fresh array of mossy garnishes that looked like they had just been plucked from the forest earlier that day. I was transported in a way to to the woods, as I was surrounded by plates of
Air-Dried Venison, Sweet Chestnuts and Pine-Smoked Catskill Trout topped with Shagbark Hickory Cream. Everything was warm and autumnal and made me miss the smell of fallen fruit that filled the air this time of year when I was growing up on my family's apple orchard. A beautifully designed and illustrated booklet described each course of the meal (see below). It was also our dear Kayoko's first time at the JB House, and one of her last meals in NYC before moving back to California, so I was happy we picked such a good one for her.

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Autumn Landscapes
Matthew Weingarten Inside Park at St. Bart's/ NYC

With the crisp air and bountiful harvest, autumn is a season for good eating. And for Savoy alum Matthew Weingarten, known for his well-executed American cooking, it's also a season for new beginnings as he takes on the role of executive chef of Inside Park at St. Bart's, the new dining destination in the landmark church.


AUTUMN LANDSCAPE MENU:

Hors d’Oeuvre

Wild-Foraged Ginkgo Nut Custard
Oysters and Algae
Spanish Mackerel with Sweet Chestnuts
Pressed Rabbit with Pickled Porcini and Sage
Charbay Herb-Infused Aperitif Trio

Dinner

Air-Dried Venison, Pork Liver Pâté, Smoked Beef Tongue, Duck Rillettes, and Garlic Sausage, Served with Harvest Pickles and Hearth-Baked Bread
Eve’s Cidery Autumn’s Gold Sparkling Apple Cider

Ribollita with Black Brandywine Tomato, Hardneck Garlic, Shell Beans, and Assorted Cruciferous Vegetables
Tio Pepe Fino Sherry

Pine-Smoked Catskill Trout with Winter Squashes, Mustard Apples, and Shagbark Hickory Cream
Peconic Bay La Barrique Chardonnay 2005

Wood-Roasted Squab with Braised Lettuce and Green Wheat and Rose Hip Jam
Olivier Leflaive Côte de Beaune Bourgogne Rouge 2005

Local Cheese with Rooftop Honey and Summer Preserves
Elyse Morisoli Vineyard Zinfandel 2005

Hand-Stretched Strudel with Antique Newtown Pippin Apples, Toasted Walnuts, and Cultured Cream
Gordon Brothers Icewine 2006

Old-Fashioned Sweets









The menu for the evening:










Inside Park at St Barts
Executive Chef Matthew Weingarten
www.insideparknyc.com
October 2008


All Photos copyright Erin Gleeson
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