Kanazawa Travelogue (February 2026)

Kayoko + me at the Nishi Chaya district in Kanazawa in September 2025

It was the beginning of September last year when Kayoko texted me, “Should we go to Kanazawa next week to meet up with Anders?” The impetus came about because Kayoko and I were just about wrapping up the manuscript for our upcoming book Everyday Sake, and barreling head-on into the design and illustration phase. Enter Anders Arhoj, one of our greatest friends who came onto the book project as our illustrator. He was spending September in Kanazawa to work on the book. Meeting over Zoom worked for a while but it quickly became clear that we needed to put our heads together in a war room setting. While I was reluctant to drop everything and go last minute, Kayoko’s subsequent text convinced me: “YOLO.”

This turned out to be the best trip I took in 2025. Not only did we accomplish a lot in the war room, we discovered somewhere new: Kanazawa. The Hokuriku Shinkansen extended service to Ishikawa Prefecture in 2015, making it a short 2.5 hour trip from Tokyo. It is the perfect mix of culture, food, comfort, and convenience. I would recommend Kanazawa to travelers who are going for the first time to Japan to skip Kyoto and go to Kanazawa, especially if you want to avoid crowds.

While it helped that Kanazawa was full of great amenities and beautiful views, my memories of this trip are joyous because I got to spend time with old and new friends, including Ayako Nakamura (whom I interview here).

Yoko + Kayoko’s Kanazawa Travel Recs:

Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery A gift shop, tasting room, and sake brewery that you can easily spend half a day in. All members get Kagatobi Ai Daiginjo from this brewery.

Standing Bar by Naohiko Noguchi Sake Institute in Kanazawa Station Stop by this chic standing bar operated by this renowned sake maker who makes this month’s Kanagaso.

HUNI Recommended to me by a Gumi member, this cozy spot overlooks the Asano River and serves small plates like local pickles, fried smelt, and kinoko pasta.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kanazawa Miyabi This newly renovated hotel features comfortable rooms and an onsen.

Sushi Reki Reki Omicho in Omicho Market A great sushi bar featuring local fish like isaki and houbou. Bonus: this place features local sakes.

Moroeya Nishi Chaya Karyo Ajiwai I had the best matcha shaved ice of the trip at Moroeya in the East Teahouse District.

Kanpai,

Yoko (Co-Founder + Sake Director, Umami Mart)

SILVER + GOLD

Kagatobi Ai Junmai Daiginjo
Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery (Ishikawa, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Yamada Nishiki 50%, SMV: +4, Acidity, 1.4

This sake is a bit of a shape shifter as its aromas contrast its taste. First, we notice aromas of green apple, watermelon, and honeysuckle. But as you sip, complex flavors of herbs, toast, and umami start to unfurl. The finish is undeniably dry. My favorite pairing with this sake was brocollini sauteed in garlic. It brought out the umami and hint of bitterness in the sake and vegetables, especially with the sake at room temperature. Ayako Nakamura of the brewery also recommends lighter food pairings including, caprese salad with fresh mozzarella, sea bream carpaccio with ponzu, and salt-seasoned squid sushi. Read my interview with Nakamura-san to learn more about the name Kagatobi.

Noguchi Kanagaso Muroka Genshu 
Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute Inc. (Ishikawa, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Gohyakumangoku 65%, SMV: N/A, Acidity, N/A

While I didn’t try this at the Noguchi standing bar in Kanazawa, I had the pleasure of encountering this sake in the ANA lounge in Haneda. This clear sake has an ample bouquet of cherry, flambeed bananas, and cooked rice. The flavors echo this spectrum of flavors including a juicy acidity and the umami of koji. In quintessential Ishikawa Prefecture style, while this sake is bold and broad with a long finish, it ultimately ends dry. This genshu clocks in at a whopping 20% ABV, so its texture is akin to a spirit, and I urge you to savor slowly. Of the limited pairing options at the lounge, soy sauce rice crackers proved to be a satisfying late night snack. Back at home, I enjoyed this sake with rich flavors liked smoked oysters, pickles, and a coconut shrimp curry. The name Kanagaso come from the mountain village where the brewery is located. Lush scenery and a statue of Kannon Bodhisattva protects the clear waters of this area. The sake reflects the purity of the water here, showcasing clarity and a clean crisp finish. Enjoy chilled or at room temperature in a wine or rocks glass.