Shochu Gumi n.023: The Old + New (June 2025)
This quarter, we’re featuring two shochus that are brand new to the U.S., one that is even new in Japan. The other is not new at all: famed Mellowed Kozuru was created in 1957 in Kagoshima and was the first shochu ever to be barrel-aged! So we’re excited to celebrate both vintage and up-and-coming shochus – to reflect and appreciate how traditions of the past have informed the future of shochu.
I was fortunate to visit Komasa Jyozo, maker of Mellowed Kozuru in February (as you may remember from last quarter’s feature of The Pink and The Green). While Komasa is mainly known for sweet potato shochu, Mellowed Kozuru is made of 100% rice. Yuki Fujita of Komasa Jyozo told us a little more about the history of this bottle:
"The second-generation owner of Komasa Jyozo, Kanosuke Komasa sought to elevate the status of shochu, which was considered a low-class drink during the post-war food shortages. Believing that, like whisky and brandy, shochu could become even more delicious with barrel-aging, he began barrel-aging rice shochu in 1951 (after six years, it was released to much skepticism)."
Photo of Kanosuke Komasa and original bottle of Mellowed Kozuru
Today, there is an abundance of barrel-aged shochus – whether made with rice, barley, or sweet potatoes. Kanosuke Komasa was a true visionary of the time and with the new, namesake distillery making award-winning whisky down the road, the spirit of innovation lives on through his grandchildren, (who own and operate both Komasa Jyozo and Kanosuke Distillery). Many of Kanosuke whiskies are even aged in Mellowed Kozuru shochu casks! Please check out my article about Kanosuke Distillery on our blog.
Our other featured shochu is by shochu giant Kirishima Shuzo, with their newest swanky release Kirishima 8, made with a sweet potato they developed themselves! They will be pouring this and other bottles at our first ever Shochu Live festival later this month – if you don’t have tickets yet, you better snag them!
Kanpai,
Kayoko
Kirishima 8
Kirishima Shuzo (Miyakonojo, Miyazaki)
Distilled from Kirishima 8 sweet potatoes
ABV 25% / Koji: Black + white / Yeast: Elegance / Aged six months in stainless steel Distillation: A blend of atmospheric + vacuum
Released in 2023, Kirishima 8 is named after the sweet potato that this distillery developed. Hisato Taura of Kirishima Shuzo tells us, “Compared
to shochu made with ordinary sweet potatoes, Kirishima No.8 contains 14 times more sweet potato-derived aromatics that produce the signature fruity and floral fragrance.” Wow! This shochu is further unique in that it uses both black and white koji, and goes through both atmospheric and vacuum distillation. Enjoy this jumbo 900ml bottle. Mr. Taura will be here for Shochu Live – come say hi!
Tasting notes: Pears, jasmine, Sweet Tarts, blood orange
Food Pairing: Ceviche, lobster roll, paella
Service Style: Soda, rocks, Mojitos
Mellowed Kozuru
Komasa Jyozo (Hioki, Kagoshima)
Distilled from rice
ABV 41% / Koji: White / Aged in New American Oak for up to 3 years
Distillation: Vacuum
When visiting Kanosuke Distillery, the sister facility to Komasa, the head distiller Shunichi
Nakamura and I tasted Mellowed Kozuru together in their grand tasting room overlooking
the Sea of China. Past bottlings of Mellowed Kozuru are displayed here behind a glass case, as it stands as an inspiration point for the company. Together we tasted Mellowed Kozuru and Nakamura-san mentioned the word mattari to describe it – rounded and relaxed, thanks to the aging. Mellow indeed.
Mellowed Kozuru casks
Tasting notes: Vanilla, clove, caramelized banana
Food Pairing: Lamb chops, yakitori, chocolate cake
Service Style: Rocks, soda, Old Fashioned
