Shochu Gumi n.024 (September 2025)
This quarter I feature two shochus that are near and dear to my heart. The first, Yuki Otoko Kasutori, is a bottle we have been waiting for a decade here in the States. We visited its maker Aoki Shuzo in 2015 where we first tasted this shochu, which was still relatively new in Japan and only sold locally in Niigata. Finally, it is here!
What makes this bottle even better is the spirit of collaboration. Aoki’s sake kasu is flown to Fukuoka to our friends Nishiyoshida Shuzo who then distill the kasu for shochu – a brilliant mashup between Niigata and Kyushu! Although Nishiyoshida now almost exclusively makes barley shochu, the company was founded making kasutori shochu. To keep this tradition alive, they enlisted Aoki Shuzo for their sake kasu, which Nishiyoshida expertly distills.
The second is a shochu by the maker of my absolute favorite kokuto shochu called Mankoi. I’ve tried for several years to get Mankoi here from Japan, and while it’s not an impossibility, I’ve special-ordered what I can for this month, a kokuto shochu called Yayoi Araroka. This is a superb bottle that is actually used to make Mankoi – earthy, minerally, and so darned flavorful!
I’ve been a bit obsessed with koji lately (go over to the last few months of Sake Gumi notes for more on that), and it turns out that the fourth generation owner, Toji Hiroyuki Kawasaki of Yayoi Shuzo is too. For his shochus, he says, “When I make koji, I believe the depth of hazekomi is crucially important. Hazekomi is the level of koji mold’s hyphae growth. I try to get a hazekomi that is deep enough to have koji mold’s hyphae reach the most valuable part of rice, the starch stored at the core of each grain. With a deep hazekomi, the resulting shochu tends to be smooth and superb. Unfortunately, committing to deep hazekomi also means lower production output, but it is how I can produce what I believe is the rich, perfect shochu, so compromising is not an option.”
Kawasaki-san’s dedication to making superior shochu, regardless of less yield, is inspiring. Please enjoy his uncompromising vision for deliciousness in each sip.
Kanpai,
Kayoko
Yuki Otoko Kasutori Shochu
Aoki Shuzo (Uonuma City, Niigata)
Distilled from junmai ginjo sake lees
ABV 25% / Koji: Yellow
Distillation: Vacuum distillation
Aged three months in enamel tanks
According to Aoki President Shonosuke Yumoto, this all-star partnership blossomed when the president of Nishiyoshida approached Aoki about distilling their Kakuraei Junmai Ginjo kasu specifically since it is of good quality.
About kasutori shochu, Yumoto told us, “Other breweries seem to add rice husks, koji, or yeast to the sake lees, but we add nothing but water for our shochu.”
Me with importer Niigata Selections President Mayumi Kobayashi (left) and President of Aoki Shuzo Shonosuke Yumoto (right).
Tasting notes: Tropical fruits, lilies, fresh rain
Food Pairing: Temaki night, fresh tofu from Joodooboo with banchan
Service Style: On the rocks, sodawari
Cocktail: Rusty Nail (3oz Yuki Otoko Shochu, 1oz Drambuie, 1oz black tea)
Stir together in a rocks glass with ice. Garnish with a whole star anise.
Araroka Kokuto Shochu
Yayoi Shuzo (Amami Oshima, Kagoshima)
Distilled from kokuto (Okinawan black sugar) + Thai rice koji
ABV 24% / Koji: White
Distillation: Atmospheric
Aged in ceramic then stainless steel
This shochu is all in its name: ara means coarsely and roka means filtered. So what you get is a kokuto shochu that tastes closely to its ingredients: black sugar and koji, with lingering oils that remain, instead of being filtered out as it usually is for shochu and spirits. This results in rich umami and mouthfeel. Blending is done in the solera style, making it hard to determine the age of these shochus, but indeed, the hue and depth of flavor point to aging.
Araroka on the rocks. Photo courtesy of Yayoi Shuzo
Tasting notes: Stonefruit, unsweetened cocoa powder, Haitian rum
Food Pairing: Japanified Chinese dishes like Bang Bang Chicken and Hoi Ko Ro
Service Style: Rocks, Kawasaki-san recommends oyuwari!
Cocktail: Passion Fruit Mojito (5 Mint leaves, 3oz Yayoi Aroka, 1oz Lemon Juice,
0.5oz Passion Fruit Syrup)
Muddle a generous amount of mint in a glass. Mix the above ingredients,
then add soda water and mix.
