Fruity, Crisp Reiwa Era Sakes (August 2026)

This month’s bottles: Tokyo Zakari + Koueigiku Sukai

Japan uses its own era system (apart from the Gregorian calendar). While the imperial family has lost most of its power after World War II, Japan still holds customs tied to the old system. One of these is the era system. Each era begins when a new emperor ascends the throne. The last time this happened was in May 2019 when Emperor Akihito abdicated the throne to his son Naruhito. When Emperor Naruhito took the throne, the new era was called Reiwa or Beautiful Harmony. Remember how hopeful the world was in 2019?! Oblivious to what mayhem would confront the world the following year, Reiwa started with optimism, looking toward a Tokyo that would host the Olympics in 2020. 

I’d like to think that Japan made the most of it despite the rocky outcome of the Olympics – showing off to the world what it could be after the pandemic by inviting hordes of tourists to their cultural hubs and megacities. In a way, they are achieving “beautiful harmony” by holding onto traditions while remaining relevant in the present day. And while the U.S. doesn’t have imperial eras, I find there is a correlation between people coming of age during the Gen Z and Reiwa eras. Both groups hold cultural roots and identity dear to their hearts while expressing themselves fully and progressively. Where labels don’t matter and simple, clear communication is key.

I noticed that sakes that started coming to our shores after the pandemic embodied this ethos, breaking from tradition and not labeling themselves. While the current systems that define sake (tokuteimeishoshu) are still firmly in place, many breweries like the one we feature this month (Koueigiku) are bucking the trend by defining themselves apart from it (read the interview inside to see how). 

It’s also refreshing to see new styles in which sake is enjoyed. For example, I am seeing more ways to enjoy sake as a low-alcohol option, which seems to be the preference for the Gen Z/Reiwa set. Sake highballs are an offering we are putting on the menu more often as it draws out the creamy texture of sake while keeping things low and slow. I urge you to try it this month with the Koueigiku Sukai!

I also like seeing how some sakes remain unchanged, nodding to the past and its traditions, but refreshed on the outside to cement their relevance in the present. This is true for Tokyo Zakari, the bottle reserved for Gold members.

We are currently in the year Reiwa 8, meaning this new era has had some time to define itself. But it is still young and I am excited to see how things unfold (Showa, the era that I was born, lasted for 63 years). The fact that many foreign tourists have had their first exposure to Japan in this era means that the way it defines itself is making an impact worldwide. I look forward to more ground-breaking sakes in the near future in addition to seeing sakes that remain unchanged and treasured by the Reiwa, Gen Z, Prince Harry cohort.

Kanpai,
Yoko

SILVER + GOLD

Koueigiku Sukai Tokubetsu Junmai
Koueigiku Brewery (Saga, Japan)
Seimaibuai: N/A, SMV: N/A, Acidity: N/A

Sukai delivers everything you want from a sake from Koueigiku, including fresh, juicy fruit flavors like muscat grapes, Cosmic Crisp apple, and melons, all with a zesty bitterness that leave you wanting more. This is the first pasteurized sake from the brewery we are seeing in the U.S., making it an ideal nama-like sake to release to you during the summer (especially for all of our ship members). When asked why this sake is considered a tokubetsu (special) junmai, brewery Yamamoto-san says, “it is milled using a special method called original shape milling. It is also rapidly cooled after pasteurization used for sake submitted to competitions.” Want to know what a Reiwa sake tastes like? This is it: fruity, fresh, sessionable and low in alcohol. Drink chilled or as a highball with bold foods like kimchi tacos or hot honey pizza!

My Koueigiku highball in Tokyo

GOLD

Tokyo Zakari Junmai Ginjo
Koyama Honke (Saitama, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Yamada Nishiki 60%, SMV: +1.5, Acidity: 1.5

While this sake has been a mainstay in Koyama Honke’s portfolio since the Taisho Era (1920’s), they have refined the recipe and redesigned the label for the Reiwa Era (specifically in time for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics). The label is a modern, jazzy depiction of masu (wooden boxes used for sake-drinking). Made with 100% Yamada Nishiki rice and expressing a vibrant aroma, Taiyo Shima of the brewery says this sake was reintroduced to, “energize Tokyo and Japan.” The aromas are fragrant indeed, with wafts of nectarines, bing cherries, and stawberries. This is BGE (big ginjo energy, see our book for more on that)! Bigger, fruity flavors are the trend these days, making this sake ahead of its time over 100 years ago. Kanpai with this sake chilled alongside tuna hand rolls, or smashed cucumber salad.

Brewer at Koyama Honke tending to koji