Happy New Yeast (January 2026)

The red bar represents ethyl caporate. CEL-24 (far right) is off the charts

This month we are zeroing in on Cel-24, a relatively new yeast in the sake world. Sakes in Kochi Prefecture are known to be “dry, dry, and dry,” so Cel-24 was developed in the early 90’s as a reaction to swing in the other direction. While dry sakes are easy-to-drink, great to pair with foods, and economical, they don’t win awards or stand out on the national stage. The brewers in Kochi wanted to be able to showcase something uniquely their own and a sake profile that would catch the attention of the rest of the sake world. Enter Cel-24 yeast.

Cel-24 was created to achieve off-the-charts “ginjo-ka”. What is ginjo-ka? Ginjo-ka is the quintessential fruity aroma and flavor that drinkers tend to expect when having ginjo and daiginjo sakes, namely notes of banana, apple, and tropical fruit. Different yeasts result in esters (organic compounds) that can smell or taste distinct. In the case of sake yeasts, many create a combination of the following esters isoamyl acetate (banana and melon flavors) and ethyl caporate (apple flavors). In the case of Cel-24, it creates crazy amounts of ethyl caporate. This chart that I took a photo of at Hamakawa Shoten (makers of Bijofu) in Kochi Prefecture in 2023, quite literally captures this statement. When Kochi started releasing sakes made with Cel-24, the sake drinking community went wild! The sakes were so full of ginjo-ka (tasting of juicy, ripe apples), and were undeniably unique. Kochi had finally caught the attention of the rest of Japan.

This month I introduce two sakes using Cel-24 yeast from Kochi Prefecture: Keigetsu Cel-24 Junmai Daiginjo and Eternal Spring Namazake Genshu Junmai Ginjo. Both are incredibly fruity thanks to the use of Cel-24. Read my blog post to learn more about Kameizumi, the makers of Eternal Spring. I visited their brewery in 2023, and asked them about how Cel-24 acts differently from conventional yeasts in production. I cheers you with these brighty, fruity sakes to kick off the new year!

Kanpai,

Yoko (Co-Founder + Sake Director, Umami Mart)

SILVER + GOLD

Keigetsu CEL-24 Junmai Daiginjo
Tosa Brewing Co. (Kochi, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Gin no Yume + Yamada Nishiki 50%, SMV: -4, Acidity, 1.4

Imagine a bowl of peaches and melons bursting with ripeness. Now imagine putting them into a blender and pouring it into a sake bottle and you’ll get Keigetsu CEL-24 JDG. Daiginjo lovers rejoice: this juicy sake exhibits textbook ginjo-ka (see page 1). Enjoy this crystal clear sake in a wine glass chilled. Sip this sake on its own to engulf yourself in the fruity aromas. If enjoying with food, pair with something rich like miso-cod or saag paneer (the brewer recommends a foie gras pairing!).
This sake is made by Tosa Brewing, located about 90 minutes by train from Kochi City who are proud to showcase this unique, locally discovered yeast.

Eternal Spring Junmai Ginjo Nama Genshu 
Kameizumi Shuzo (Kochi, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Hattan Nishiki + Matsuyama Mii 50%, SMV: -11, Acidity 1.8

Kameizumi sets itself apart from other breweries in Kochi by using all four types of Kochi rice and local yeasts. For CEL-24, however, they use Matsuyama Mii (from nearby Ehime) and Hattan Nishiki (Hiroshima). Ogasawara-san, who makes the sake along with his team mates, emphasizes that most of their sakes are small batch experiments – trying out all the combinations of local rice and yeast. Because they only produce a tank of each seasonal “experiment”, kuramoto (owner) Saibara-san said that CEL-24 makes up 90% of what they make. Saibara-san was a master host with a wide smile and soft voice – who let us in on a not-so-secret secret – he actually prefers the quintessential, dry Kochi sakes to sakes made with CEL-24! Nevermind that though... pour a glass of CEL-24 chilled into a wide-bowled wine glass and you’ll get apple, melon, and pineapples for aromatics and a basketful of strawberries for flavor. Enjoy this fruity sake with a lower ABV of 14% alongside ankimo, chicken liver paste, or kabocha simmered in soy-sauce and honey.