Katsuaki Yamamoto, toji (master brewer) at Koueigiku Brewery
Koueigiku Brewery sakes seemed to burst onto the scene very recently here in the states. It was 2023 when we first started carrying Koueigiku, which is three years after the brewery debuted its sakes in Japan. Their goal to release sakes in 2020 was intentional - to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics, but we all know what happened in 2020.
Koueigiku made a splash despite the damper that was 2020, and my visits to Japan from 2021 onwards introduced me to Koueigiku sakes in bars and restaurants in Tokyo and beyond. One of my favorite memories of having Koueigiku was enjoying as a highball and sour in the middle of the summer in 2024 in chain izakaya Nakame no Teppen. They advertise it as a Kiku-hai or Kiku-sour!
We had to get both. Highball on the left and sour on the right.
Back at our shop in Oakland, it was clear that Koueigiku was resonating with people stateside as well. Its fruity, higher acid, and flavor packed profile often comes at a slightly lower alcohol percentage, making it easy to sip all night with or without food.
A deliberate move by the forward-thinking brewers of Koueigiku is to omit any mention of sake type. Most bottles from this brewery do not tell you if it’s a junmai, ginjo, or honjozo. I have found that some brewers are moving in this direction, suggesting that labeling your sakes with a certain type makes drinkers have preconceived notions before buying or sipping. We have a whole section in our new book Everyday Sake that discusses the issues with typicity, which I find to be a fascinating topic.
I was lucky enough to snag some of Katsuaki Yamamoto’s time, who is the toji (master brewer) of Koueigiku Brewery for an interview. As toji, he overseas the entire sake brewing processCan you set the scene for your brewery? Where is it and are there any special natural landmarks?
Sounds beautiful. My grandma is from Saga and I have been there many times. I really enjoy the pristine, untouched feeling of the area. There is so much to discover there.
You started the brewery in 2019, the first year of Reiwa. Can you tell us what inspired you to take over an old brewery and what your concept in opening a brewery in 2019 meant to you?
When we first encountered this brewery, the interior was completely empty, with no tanks or large equipment inside. Dust and dirt from years of neglect, as well as soil-like debris that had fallen from the roof due to leaks, were piled up everywhere.
Alcohol has a very strong ability to absorb odors. The scents of the space and equipment quickly transfer to the brewed sake as flavor. Maintaining cleanliness in the space itself, as well as strict hygiene control during production, is an essential condition for making good sake. With this in mind, we hired contractors to replace the roof tiles and rotten materials, and then the three of us began a thorough cleaning of the brewery, getting covered in mud every day.
Initially, we had limited funds, so we acquired used equipment from a defunct sake brewery in another prefecture and aimed to keep costs down by minimizing the need to outsource work to specialists. It was truly a handmade sake brewery!
That sounds like so much work! I am glad you revived it. The building looks beautifully restore and I would love to visit sometime.
Your sakes are very new wave. With its bold flavors and simple designs, it seems to resonate with people who are new to sake. What did you want to offer sake-lovers of today versus of past generations? And what are some techniques that you've incorporated in your production process to make sakes for the current times? Why do you think your sakes have resonated with new sake drinkers?
KY: We want to offer a rich experience where you can enjoy this moment with all your senses, with a complex flavor profile encompassing aroma, acidity, bitterness, astringency, and umami—more than just a simple alcohol drink.
Traditionally, acidity in sake has been considered a drawback due to bacterial contamination. However, we believe there is a type of acidity that possesses a certain brilliance, and we believe its flavor can complement a wide range of modern dietary habits.
We maintain consistent low-temperature control from brewing to bottling, taking meticulous care to minimize oxidation and deliver our products to customers in the best possible condition. Our motto is "A drink that makes your heart flutter".
Your sakes are very forward-thinking. What kind of sakes would you like to make in the future?
KY: Our goal is to create a drink that tastes delicious whether chilled, at room temperature, or warmed, a drink you can enjoy continuously.
I have never tried your sakes warm. I should try that.
Sukai is a new bottle we have never tried before and we are release it exclusively for member in August 2026. What is the concept behind this sake?
KY: The name "Sukai" (清海) sounds similar to the English word "Sky," and it evokes the image of a refreshing sake reminiscent of a sea of clouds in the heavens. Located very close to the storehouse is Suga Shrine, which was known as the guardian shrine of Ogi County, and the name of the storehouse comes from its origin as a shrine that refreshes the soul.
Can you describe the flavor of this sake? How about the aromas? What is unique in the production process to achieve these aromas and flavors?
KY: The aroma has a gentle scent reminiscent of muscat grapes, citrus fruits, melon, and fresh, invigorating citrus. Flavorwise, a refreshing and light sweetness spreads, along with a juicy and refined acidity, and a pleasant bittern finish brings the whole thing together.
In addition to not specifying the type of sake on the bottle, you usually don't share the seimaibuai, rice type, SMV and acidity. Can you tell us the reason?
KY: Because we want you to enjoy the alcohol itself without any preconceived notions.
This is the first bottle I have seen from you that has a tokuteimeishoshu type associated with it: Tokubetsu Junmai. Why did you choose to specify the type for this bottle?
KY: Sukai Seikai is a pasteurized product that we sell year-round, and it's widely used in restaurants. We received feedback that having a specific designation like "Special Junmai" makes it easier for restaurants to include on their menus, so we decided to label it "Special Junmai.”
What makes it a tokubetsu (special) junmai? Is it a special rice, rice polishing, or other technique?
KY: This sake is milled using a special method called "original shape milling." Furthermore, the rapid cooling process after pasteurization uses ice water, employing the same procedures as those used for sake submitted to tasting competitions. These two factors are what make this sake "special."
This is fasciinating! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, time and sakes with us. We can’t wait for members to try this sake, new to the U.S. and hope to visit you soon in Saga.
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