Interview with Takumi Tada of Tenpai Shuzo

We are thrilled to launch the Craftsman TADA line of shochus by Fukuoka's Tenpai Shuzo for Shochu Gumi this quarter. 

When Shochu Gumi was first launched in 2019, we featured a barley shochu by Tenpai, but since then, that bottle disappeared from the U.S. market. Now, Tenpai is back stronger than ever, with their Craftsman TADA line of double- distilled, 100% barley shochus using different sake-inspired techniques to bring out distinct flavor profiles and aromas. The two shochus featured this month, while both made with white koji and barley, are so wildly distinctive that I couldn’t not share them with you.

Takumi Tada, fifth generation owner of Tenpai Shuzo, in front of a vat of Craftsman TADA moromi.

Plus, I was blown away by Owner Takumi Tada's answers to my questions about the bottles, I wanted to put them here. Takumi-san was only 27 years old when he took over Tenpai Shuzo and he’s already shaking things up in the industry quite a bit. His passion for the craft of barley shochu is palpable. Let’s dive in!

Question. Please tell us your name and title.

I am Takumi Tada. I am the fifth-generation owner of Tenpai, a barley shochu distillery in Fukuoka Prefecture.

Q. What is your role at the distillery?

In addition to being involved in the actual shochu production, I handle sales, brand promotion (both domestically and internationally), and new product planning. My job encompasses both making the product and communicating its value.

Q. What led you to enter the shochu industry?

Since it is the family business, the distillery and the process of making shochu were a familiar part of my life from a young age.

Takumi-san, left, with his parents. Itaru Tada, center, was former President of Tenpai before Takumi-san took over at the age of 27.

I had originally planned to return to the family business at age 30 and was working in sales elsewhere, but the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic prompted me to move that timeline up by three years; I returned to Tenpai at age 27.

Q. What do you enjoy most about making shochu?

Formulating hypotheses based on past results and testing them in the next production run. Sometimes the *moromi* (fermenting mash) or the flavor after distillation turns out exactly as intended, and other times it doesn't go quite as planned. I enjoy the process of building the flavor profile step-by-step while discussing the reasons and our next moves with my father.

Q. What are the unique characteristics and strengths of Tenpai?

Tenpai is a small distillery in Chikuzen Town, Fukuoka Prefecture, that has dedicated itself to working with a single raw material—barley—for many years.

We use 100% two-row barley grown in Fukuoka and Saga prefectures, and we even make our *koji* (mold starter) from barley. One of our most distinctive features is our unique "double atmospheric distillation" method. We are constantly pursuing the full potential of barley.

Q. What do you consider the most important step in making shochu?

It is difficult to choose just one, but for Tenpai, "distillation" is particularly crucial.

It involves deciding which elements to extract from the diverse aromas and flavors created during fermentation. Distillation is not merely about extracting alcohol; it is a process of "designing the flavor."

Q. Tell us about the barley used.

Both are made using 100% two-row barley from Fukuoka and Saga prefectures. The *koji* (malted grain starter) is also made from barley; no rice is used.

Photos, top: preparing barley for distillation; bottom: barley inoculated with koji

Q. What kind of vessels are used for aging, and for how long?

They are stored and aged in stainless steel tanks for approximately one to one-and-a-half years.

Rather than imparting flavors from casks or barrels, we prioritize the inherent flavor of the barley derived from the fermentation and distillation processes.

Some shochus are aged in a tunnel at Tenpai Shuzo

Q. What is the difference between CRAFTSMAN AKA and CRAFTSMAN SHIRO?

They differ in their intended flavor profiles and food pairings. We will explain the production methods and pairing recommendations later.

Q. When was the CRAFTSMAN brand launched?

It was launched in 2017. The brand was created with the theme of food pairing, aiming to offer a distilled spirit that can be enjoyed alongside a meal.

Q. How does the CRAFTSMAN brand differ from Tenpai’s other shochu products?

CRAFTSMAN places special importance on "pairing with food." We design the spirit's character by considering not only its flavor on its own but also how it tastes when consumed with food.

Q. Why do AKA and SHIRO taste so different?

Although both are made from 100% two-row barley, we create distinct personalities for each by varying our fermentation approaches.

For SHIRO, we use a sake yeast known for its aromatic qualities and ferment the mash at low temperatures over a long period; this brings out a rich sweetness and a full-bodied quality derived from the barley.

AKA, on the other hand, employs a unique production method for barley shochu inspired by the *Yamahai* sake-making technique, utilizing lactic acid bacteria resident in the brewery to induce lactic acid fermentation. This draws out the barley's inherent richness, depth, and mellow flavor.

It is remarkable that such vastly different flavor profiles can be created from the same barley simply by varying the fermentation process. That is what makes these two products so interesting, and it represents the "potential of barley" that we aim to convey through the CRAFTSMAN line.

Q. Can this shochu be described as "handmade"?

While the definition of "handmade" can vary, our production process relies heavily on human intuition and judgment. No two batches are exactly alike, and we do not engage in standardized, mass-production methods. We prioritize a process where people observe the condition of the mash, its aroma, and the progression of fermentation, making thoughtful decisions before moving to the next stage.

Q. Are CRAFTSMAN AKA and SHIRO made from 100% barley? Is rice used?

Both are made from 100% barley. We use barley *koji* (malted grain starter), so no rice is used.

Q. Tell us about the town where the distillery is located. How does the region influence your shochu production?

Tenpai’s distillery is located in Chikuzen Town, Fukuoka Prefecture, an area with a thriving agricultural sector situated on the Chikushi Plain.

The local natural environment is deeply connected to our sake-making—from the two-row barley grown in Fukuoka and Saga prefectures to the water we draw from underground sources.

Q. Is barley shochu production common in Fukuoka?

Fukuoka has a culture of barley shochu alongside its sake culture.

Fukuoka and neighboring Saga are major barley-producing regions; together, they account for nearly 50% of Japan's total barley cultivation. Tenpai has long pursued the potential of barley by utilizing grain grown in this region.

Q. Do you produce shochu other than barley shochu, or other types of spirits?

Our craftsmanship centers entirely on barley. We produce only barley shochu. We strive to see just how diverse a range of flavors we can create by deeply exploring a single ingredient. Recently, we have also expanded into spirits infused with ingredients like coffee and black pepper, using our barley shochu as the base.

Q. What food pairings do you recommend?

AKA is rich and robust; it pairs well with meat or grilled dishes featuring soy sauce, savory glazes (tare), or BBQ sauce. SHIRO is light and delicate; it shines when paired with salty or acidic flavors, clean-tasting white fish/seafood, or grilled vegetables. We encourage customers to choose their shochu based on the dish—much like selecting between red and white wine.

Q. How do you recommend serving or drinking it?

We recommend drinking AKA on the rocks, "twice-up" (diluted with an equal amount of water), or with hot water. For SHIRO, we recommend mixing it with soda water.

A ratio of 1 part shochu to 2–3 parts soda water makes it easy to pair with food. Of course, you can also enjoy them on the rocks or neat.

Q. Do you have any recommended cocktail recipes?

Both AKA and SHIRO pair beautifully with tea; mixing them with ingredients like Earl Grey liqueur brings out unique flavor profiles for each. SHIRO is excellent with roasted green tea (hojicha). For AKA, adding a splash of Yellow Chartreuse to a soda-based highball adds depth to the flavor. Naturally, they are also delicious simply mixed with soda water. We can share further details separately.

Q. Are there any behind-the-scenes stories or memories regarding the development of CRAFTSMAN?

CRAFTSMAN was born from a desire to share the enjoyment of shochu with people who hadn't previously been familiar with the spirit. That is why we adopted a design and naming style that differs significantly from our existing lineup and typical shochu products. As a result, we feel we have sparked new interest and are seeing many people pick up the bottle who had never tried shochu before.

We create distinct flavor profiles from the same barley and suggest specific food pairings for each. We hope that by comparing AKA and SHIRO, you will discover the exciting possibilities inherent in barley and shochu. I hope that in the U.S., too, shochu will become a drink that people naturally choose to pair with their meals—just as they do with wine or beer.

*Photos courtesy of Brian Boothe