Shichida Shunyo 75 with Caprese Salad
While birthdays seem to blur together at this point, I look forward to introducing unique and memorable pairings for Sakqueso every year. This is our 11th year toasting to Sakqueso and the excitement has not faded!
I recently celebrated my father-in-law’s birthday with his favorite dish: Caprese Salad. My in-laws hail from the Midwest, and with Italian heritage going back generations, the dishes at our get-togethers are often Italian-American. Lucky me! So this year for Sakqueso, rather than pairing sakes with specific cheeses, I am presenting pairings that pair with specific dishes that are as American as… the Sopranos.
With so many brewers making sakes that are higher in acidity, the sakes seem to do all the work for me. Crisp or high acidity complements the richness of cheese. Coupled with that, sake and cheese work so well together mainly because they share a common ingredient during fermentation: lactic acid. In addition to creating an environment where unwanted microorganisms cease multiplying, lactic acid results in flavors high in umami. And having sake and cheese, which are both high in umami, creates an umami explosion – often leading one to discover a third flavor that would only be unlocked when having them together. Simply put, it’s two delicious flavors that produce even more deliciousness when enjoyed in tandem.
Hiroshi Sasaki, owner of Sasaki Shuzo, maker of this month’s Housen Nami no Oto explains how wine and sake differ when it comes to cheese pairings, “The umami components of cheese, which are amino acids, combine with the rich umami of sake, resulting in a complex and flavorful taste. While wine is paired with cheese by using its acidity and tannins to ‘cut’ through it, sake can be paired in a way that envelops and enhances the umami of the cheese.”
While I enjoy sipping sakes on their own, they really come to life when they are paired with food and friends. Sakqueso is an opportunity to explore specific pairings that will create conversation and (sometimes) controversy. And with that, let’s Sakqueso!
Kanpai,
Yoko
SILVER + GOLD

Shichida Shunyo 75 Junmai
Tenzan Sake Brewery (Saga, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Shunyo 75%, SMV: -10, Acidity: 1.6
Light and dry with crisp acidity, this sake showcases Niigata-grown Shunyo rice polished to 75%, preserving the flavor of rice. Kensuke Shichida (president of Tenzan Sake Brewery) says about this rice, “I have high expectations for Shunyo rice, and believe it will establish a new genre of sake flavor.” Aromas of papaya and lychee make way for a refreshing, low-ABV sip. Think of this as the Sauvignon Blanc of sake – enjoy chilled! Because this sake is light and fruity, fresh cheeses worked better for the pairing than aged cheeses. Our top pick for the Sakqueso pairing is a Caprese Salad. The fruitiness of the tomato and olive oil brought out the fruity melon notes of the sake, while the creaminess of the mozzarella highlights the light texture of the sake.
GOLD

Housen Nami no Oto Tokubetsu Junmai
Sasaki Shuzo (Miyagi, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Kura no Hana 55%, SMV: 0, Acidity: 2.0
This sake opens with aromas of honey, whipped cream, banana, and a touch of lactic tang. The creaminess carries over in its flavor through to a long, porridge-like finish. Brewed with Miyagi’s own Kura no Hana rice, try this umami rich sake with an equally umamiful aged cheese. 5th-generation owner Hiroshi Sasaki’s Sakqueso pairing suggestion comes from an experience he had in Italy, “I presented at an event in Milan where we combined [it] with Parmigiano Reggiano. I remember being very impressed by how the chunky, hard cheese melted in my mouth along with this, and it was simple yet incredibly delicious.” Pair at room temperature with a satisfying plate of Chicken Parmesan (I used J. Kenji López-Alt’s recipe), complete with spaghetti and tomato sauce. You won’t regret it but make sure to take a walk after dinner!
Housen Nami no Oto paired with Chicken Parmesan

Comments (0)
There are no comments for this article. Be the first one to leave a message!