Interview with Chief of Overseas Section Ayako Nakamura of Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery

Entrance to Fukumitsuya Brewery in Kanazawa

I first met Ayako Nakamura last year in July when she came to Umami Mart for an event. Right away, I was drawn to her friendly aura and she has become someone I value as both a friend and sake sensei! I reached out to her recently to ask her some questions about Kanazawa and the brewery.

How did you get into the sake world?

Ayako Nakamura: Before joining Fukumitsuya, I was studying international trade of Burgundy wine at a technical college in Dijon, France, with the aim of working in the wine industry.

During my studies, I realized that Japanese sake was largely misunderstood in France and that very few people in the wine world truly knew it. This motivated me to do an internship at a sake brewery, and Fukumitsuya kindly accepted me as part of my college curriculum. There I experienced sake brewing, shop operations, and sales support. I became convinced that sake deserves to be recognized internationally as a craft product and a gastronomic alcoholic beverage.

In 2013, I joined Fukumitsuya when they were looking for someone for international sales.

How long has the brewery been in Kanazawa, along that road?

Fukumitsuya’s roots date back to 1625, and the brewery has been located in Kanazawa since the late 18th century, when our ancestor Tasuke Shioya moved here from Fukumitsu Town. Our headquarters has stood in Ishibiki ever since.

The area takes its name from the road used in the late 16th century to transport stone from Mt. Tomuro for the construction of Kanazawa Castle. That historic road still runs directly in front of our brewery today and leads straight to Kenrokuen Garden.

What are some characteristics of Kanazawa that are reflected in the sake you brew?

First, our brewing water, called Hyakunensui (one-hundred-year water), starts as rain and snow near Mount Hakusan and slowly filters underground for over 100 years. Along the way, it absorbs natural minerals from the land—once part of the sea—giving our sake its signature dry, crisp, and mineral-driven style.Ayako-san showing us the souce of their Hyakunensui water at the brewery

Second, Kanazawa is known for its rich food culture and long history of fermentation. The region developed many fermented foods such as Konka-zuke (marinated vegetables or fish with rice bran), Kasu-zuke (marinated vegetable with Sake kasu), Nare-zushi (marinated fish with Koji), and that same fermentation know-how shapes our sake today—clean, dry, and made to pair beautifully with food.

Are there any overall characteristics of Kanazawa or Ishikikawa Prefecture sakes? I noticed many sakes from your region were umami-forward and dry.

Yes, sake from Kanazawa and Ishikawa Prefecture is often described as “Nojun-Karakuchi,” which means rich and dry. It tends to be more umami-forward and fuller-bodied, while still finishing clean and dry. This contrasts with Niigata’s well-known “Tanrei-Karakuchi,” or light and dry style.

All members will be getting the Junmai Daiginjo from your Kagatobi line. Can you please describe the significance of Kagatobi?

Kaga Tobi were elite fire brigades officially employed by the Kaga Domain and stationed at its Edo residence. Renowned as the best firefighters in Japan, they were famous not only for their skill but also for their fearless, hot-blooded spirit.

Dressed in long coats boldly decorated with clouds and lightning (that we use the logo for our sake labels), cotton jackets bearing their crest with fine sashiko stitching, and carrying traditional fire hooks, they cut a striking and heroic figure. Both lively and brave, the Kaga Tobi became cultural icons of Edo—celebrated as a stylish and charismatic brotherhood that captured the admiration of the entire city.

Japan still has community-based volunteer fire brigades today, continuing a long tradition of local, self-organized firefighting that dates back to the Edo period.

If there is one thing you would recommend someone to do during their visit to Kanazawa, what would it be?

Without a doubt, Omicho Market is my top recommendation. At the fish stalls, you can find a wide variety of locally caught seafood unique to the region. It’s  a great place to casually pick up sashimi made from local fish—many shops will prepare it so you can enjoy it on the spot.

Oh yes, thank you for giving us a recommendation for Sushi Reki Reki in Omicho Market. Kayoko and I went crazy there. We loved the great selection of local fish and shellfish. We can’t wait to go back to Kanazawa and see you again!Kohada sushi at Sushi Reki Reki Omicho

Visit Fukumitsuya Sake Brewery A gift shop, tasting room, and sake brewery that you can easily spend half a day in. All members get Kagatobi Ai Daiginjo from this brewery.