Sake Gumi Newsletter: Mizumoto (August 2024)

As part of the feature for bodaimoto month in July, we discussed the history surrounding bodaimoto. It was born in Nara at Shoryakuji temple. Traditionally, only breweries that used moto (starter) from Shoryakuji could call their sakes bodaimoto. Then, other brewers started making starters in the bodaimoto style in their own towns. These sakes were referred to as mizumoto sakes. The toji at Eigashima Shuzo, Yuji Nakamura, who brewed this month’s Octopus bottle states simply that, “Bodaimoto was born at Shoryakuji Temple in Nara, and as it spread throughout the country, it was given the name mizumoto.” But as time progressed, the terms seems to be interchangeable. Case in point, both of last month’s sakes are called bodaimoto but neither of them use moto from Shoryakuji. Hashimoto Teruaki, the toji at Miyoshino Jozo explains, “I don’t think there is any difference (between bodaimoto and mizumoto) since the naming changes depending on the times. The common feature is that soyashi-mizu is made at a high temperature. If there is this commonality, I think it is okay to use either expression.” Well said!

I like to think of mizumoto as the younger sibling of bodaimoto. They are both rooted in ancient techniques. Nakamura-san says, “It’s a return to the origins of sake, to its original taste.” While Hashimoto-san says, “Most of our sake is brewed without yeast additives and are not temperature controlled. For this reason, it is necessary for people and the climate to come together to brew the sake, and that is where the unique value lies.” These wilder techniques that are closer to nature yield sakes that exhibit a range of acidity that is complex and not necessarily just sour.

Mizumoto can also embrace the new world. As we learned in July, bodaimoto was originally made during the summer in the heat, so to simulate the environment, brewers like Miyoshino Shuzo use thermal tanks (see image). It will be interesting to see how mizumotos continue to spread across Japan. It’ll be only a matter of time until a true new world mizumoto will be made outside of Japan!

Yoko (Co-Founder, Umami Mart)

Kamitaka “Octopus Label” Mizumoto Junmai
Eigashima Shuzo (Hyogo, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Nipponbare 70%, SMV: +0.5, Acidity: 2.05, Yeast: 6

Yuji Nakamura of Eigashima Shuzo does it all. In addition to being the distiller and blender of their famed Akashi whiskies, he is its master sake brewer. Prior to being appointed as the toji at Eigashima Shuzo in 2016, Nakamura-san worked as a brewer in Nara – where he learned how to make mizumoto sake. “No brewery in Hyogo Prefecture had adopted this manufacturing method yet,” he says, “I realized that it was a unique process.” Echoing the thoughts of Yaegashi-san of Terada Honke last month, Nakamura-san says about the smell of the starter, “I was surprised that the scent was completely different from the modern sokujo starter method. Although it is an ancient manufacturing method, the finished product is delicious alcohol, so I was interested in the wisdom of our ancestors.” Read more in our interview with Nakamura-san.

Enjoy this sake chilled for its tart apricot and mascarpone characteristics, or warm it up to savor notes of persimmon and enhance a spicy, bitter finish. The best pairing for this sake is octopus (surprise!), which is the speciality of Akashi, where the brewery is located. For vegetarians, a wakame or seaweed salad (like sunomono) proved to be a winning pairing.

Read my interview with Nakamura-san from Eigashima Shuzo here!

Hanatomoe Mizumoto Muroka Nama Genshu Junmai
Miyoshino Jozo (Nara, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Gin no Sato 70%, SMV: undisclosed, Acidity: undisclosed, Yeast: Ambient

I am happy to introduce a Nara sake in our discussion of bodaimoto and mizumoto. Hanatomoe used to obtain their moto from Shoryakuji (and made a bodaimoto), but now make their own soyashi-mizu on site for this mizumoto sake. Their commitment to making sake in a natural style is apparent based on the fact that they use a local strain of rice and ambient yeast for the starter. Master brewer Hashimoto-san recommends this sake to lovers of natural wine, in addition to “People who enjoy drinks with an artistic sense. People who want to have a new adventure that they have never tried before.” This is a bottle for people who are on the fringe – perfect for us weirdos!

Like a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis, all of the brewers we are featuring describe the metamorphosis of the starter in aromatic terms, “What suprised me was the smell and high acidity of soyashi-mizu. The odor of putrefaction changes to a yogurt-like aroma with tropical notes such as strawberry and lychee.” We promise it all turns out well in the end!!!

Get notes of raisins, figs, sour currants, and orange peel after admiring its golden hue. The juicy acidity make this a sake worth introducing to wine lovers. We love having tart this sake chilled in a white wine glass in the backyard with Greek author Diane Kochilas’ Toasted Orzo With Carrots, Raisins, and Pine Nuts recipe.

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