Spotlight on Fifth Taste: Interview with Jesse Pugach, Founder of Fifth Taste

Find Fifth Taste sakes on our shelves all year long. From funky and complex kimotos and bodaimotos to fruity and powerful MNGs (muroka nama genshus), Jesse’s portfolio is never boring. That’s why whenever he’s got another one to introduce, I’m all ears! If he’s ever in your orbit, like at one of our events or at Sake Day, I urge you to ask him a question about sake – it’s alway enlightening.

Hey Jesse! Can you tell me a little bit about yourself, Fifth Taste, and how you got started in sake? 

My name is Jesse Pugach and I am the Founder of Fifth Taste. We are primarily a distributor of fun and unique artisanal sake, working with some of the brightest, most passionate and boundary pushing importers in the U.S., but we also directly import some killer sake on our own. Additionally, we run Fifth Taste Sake School, which is a provider for both the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) and the Sake Sommelier Association (SSA).  My sake journey started back in 2004 when I stumbled into Ozumo Restaurant in San Francisco looking for a bartending gig and I was immersed in a world of delicious sake for the first time.  Seriously, up until that point, I had never once tasted sake in my life. I was drawn to the diverse aromas, flavors and textures, but mostly to the compelling stories and the interesting people who make it. A few years later I left to work for an importer before eventually landing a role as the sake specialist for Southern Wine & Spirits.  In 2019 I went off on my own and formed Fifth Taste as a way to champion the brands and people in the sake industry that shared a similar passion for cool and funky sake.

What is the concept behind Fifth Taste?

The name Fifth Taste is a reference to umami, the fifth taste. While not all of the sakes in our portfolio are overly umami-forward, umami is a very important aspect of sake, and it is something that makes sake unique in the beverage world.  Exploring the dynamics of umami and how that impacts the balance and flavor profile of sake is of particular interest to me and it is where I draw a great deal of inspiration.    

What kinds of sakes do you look for to place in your portfolio? 

We are very fortunate that we work with some of the best sake importers in the U.S. We have a shared vision and similar sensibilities, so it makes adding new sake that suits our style quite easy. For our direct imports, we focus heavily on small production sakes that are expressive, dynamic and fun! Everything that we import is nama and the vast majority is muroka nama genshu.   

A lineup of some of Fifth Taste’s bottles

How would you describe the Bay Area sake scene? 

In a word, I would describe the Bay Area sake scene as inclusive. Sake, for most people here is a new and, at times, intimidating category. We are blessed with so many fantastic sake people and institutions in the Bay who help folks along on their sake journey. Briefly to mention a few, Umami Mart of course, which is a unique and essential bridge between worlds for sake, shochu, bar and kitchen wares. The OG, True Sake, the U.S.’s first sake retail shop and organizers of the biggest sake party of them all, Sake Day SF. And Millay, an unparalleled venue for exploring sakes by the glass and good times. I also want to give a massive shout out to Moto Club and the ways that they are starting to bring together Bay Area sake industry professionals and enthusiasts. Look, New York will always be the “big time” for sake in the U.S., but do not sleep on the Bay, we out here.        

I love that and agree that we have a very united and inclusive scene here. What do you look forward to in 2025 for sake?

I look forward to seeing sake continue to make inroads with “non-traditional” venues for sake. Similar trends that we are seeing in Japan will continue here in the U.S., so if you are a fan of bright, juicy, spritzy sakes or big, flavorful and complex genshu sakes, I have good news for you. There will always be a place for simple, pleasing and easy drinking sakes, but we will keep seeing sakes arrive from Japan that push boundaries and expand our perception of what sake can be.  Oh and also, we will start seeing more doburoku and “craft sake”, get ready...

Thank you so much for taking time out of your busy schedule. We love your energy and sakes. Can’t wait to see more of the weird, fruity, and complex brews that you bring it. Here’s to the next 10 years (and beyond) of friendship and sake!

visit www.sipfifthtaste.com for more