Otokoyama “Man's Mountain” Sake (December 2024)
Otokoyama Brewery in Asahikawa, Hokkaido. Photos by Yoko
Otokoyama or Man’s Mountain sake has always been iconic. Often associated with being dry, I wanted to dig deeper to understand its origin, and if indeed, it has to be dry.
Goro Yamazaki, the fifth-generation president of Otokoyama Brewery in Hokkaido visited us in July, which gave me a chance to learn all about the history of Otokoyama sake. He explains, “Otokoyama Brewery was originally from Itami in Hyogo Prefecture. The Yamamoto family ran the brewery and built deep roots around the Otokoyama name.”
The Otokoyama name became so famous and well-liked that Otokoyama sakes started springing up in different regions all over Japan. When the Yamamoto family were ready to move on from sake brewering, they passed on the rights and history to the Yamazaki Shuzo in Hokkaido. “At the time, our family was already making sake that was called Otokoyama,.” adds Yamazaki, “but with the passing of the baton from the Yamamotos, we inherited all of their historical artifacts and technology around brewing from the Itami brewery.”
Yamazaki laments, “There is no copyright attached to the name Otokoyama, but our brewery in Hokkaido is the only one that took on the legacy of the original one in Itami. Prior to 1968, we were called Yamazaki Shuzo, but now we are Otokoyama Brewery.” When I visited their brewery in 2019, I was impressed by the amount of ukiyo-e, tools, and memorabilia displayed at their museum. Otokoyama has expanded their attractions this September by opening Otokoyama Sake Park, which features a cafe, sake tasting area, and outdoor play park for the tykes.
Otokoyama sakes became known to be dry because the Yamazaki family wanted to offer a flavor profile that was a step above the rest. Instead of the sweeter, heavy types of sake, they wanted to brew a light and refined sake. “Otokoyama doesn’t necessarily mean karakuchi (dry),” says Yamazaki, “but its association to being dry is because of our water and the need to pair with the cuisine here (lots of seafood), which results in a dry sake style.”
But I still wanted to know, is there an actual Man’s Mountain? “Yes,” says Yamazaki, “It is said to be Otokoyama Hachimangu Shrine (currently Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine) in Kyoto. Since it has been considered a religious place since ancient times, it seems that it was used as a brand of sake.”
Off to Man’s Mountain we climb!
Kanpai.
Yoko (Co-Founder, Umami Mart)
Signed noren by bassist Michael Anthony of Van Halen at the Otokoyama Sake Museum.
Mutsu Otokoyama Chokara Junmai
Hachinohe Shuzo (Aomori, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Local Aomori Rice 60%, SMV: +8, Acidity: 1.0, Koji: White
Hachinohe Shuzo is famous for using white koji, which results in brews that have pronounced acidity and sharpness. Tart flavors of green apple complement a sizzling dryness. I recommend this sake warm which highlights the savory umami notes of rice and cheese while dailing down the tannic finish. A quintessential Otokoyama, in my eyes, this sake is a welcome friend in the cold months, when I’m pining for a cozy sake in a ceramic cup. My favorite pairing is with Winter Root Nimono (photo below).
Otokoyama Sushi Booster Tokubetsu Junmai
Otokoyama Shuzo (Hokkaido, Japan)
Seimaibuai: Miyama Nishiki from Akita 55%, SMV: +2, Acidity: 1.5, Yeast: 901, 1801
If this sake was a movie, I’d call it “The Neutralizer.” When enjoying with sushi rice and raw fish, it resets the palette, leaving a cleansing effect, like water. I understood and tasted what the 50 sushi chefs in Hokkaido were aiming for when they were creating this sake! Through a democratic process of blind tasting, these chefs decided on this sake that isn’t overly sweet or floral, so that doesn’t get in the way of food. And while it was tempting to try and pair it with specific fish, they thought it would be the most versatile if it paired with sumeshi (vinegared sushi rice). Therefore, I am introducing this sake with my Zukedon recipe (photo of pairing below) that includes a heaping helping of sushi rice. Enjoy this sake chilled and get notes of rice, cream, banana, and caramel.
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