I recently became a permanent resident of this country, and to celebrate my newly acquired freedom, we went to Le Bernardin. Though I know a lot about food, I haven't been to many top-notch restaurants because I end up bitching about its flaws. If you are paying $250 a person for a dining experience, don't you expect it to be superb, from food to decor to service to every tiny aspect such as the flower arrangements, or how the tables are set up?
Hence the title of this post. Despite the fact this restaurant has been admired, loved and showered with awards continuously since 1986 when they moved from Paris, I must interject.
Food: Indeed, it was superb. Eric Ripert knows his fish. What to make, how to make, cook times, temperatures, all of it. I will give him that. Some people may think Le Bernardin is a French restaurant, but it's really a seafood restaurant, so let's not mix things up here. His use of Japanese ingredients, flavors, textures -- everything was very impressive.
Here is what we ordered.
Amuse bouche: From left, lox (already eaten), butter poached lobster, and watermelon gazpacho with golden watermelon.
Very refreshing, especially watermelon gazpacho was sweet, tangy, and appetizing.
First course: Flash-marinated sea scallop, sweet and sour grapes, extra virgin olive oil-yuzu vinaigrette.
Super sweet scallops, with a very interesting texture. Something crunchy (can't tell what it was) mixed with the velvety scallop was a very interesting combination.
Hamachi “Sashimi”: mint, cucumber and apple, sweet and sour carrot vinaigrette.
I tasted cilantro, so I didn't like it, but Nate seemed to love it.
Second course: Ultra rare seared tuna, marinated fennel, basil and capers.
Tuna was fresh, but I don't like fennel, so it was just ok.
My second course: Caviar and shellfish medley, yuzu-scented custard, smoked bonito broth.
I could have a bucket of this. This was very Japanese. Egg custard on the bottom with a subtle yuzu scent, and topped with various shell fish. And the broth! It was very comforting to taste katsuo dashi (bonito broth) at a fancy western restaurant. Plus the uni shell-shaped container was so cute.
Main course: “Ultra-rare” arctic char, truffled peas and favas butter lettuce-tarragon emulsion.
Arctic char was amazing. I didn't care too much for green sauce. It was too green for me.
My main course: Roasted monkfish, wilted mustard greens-daikon “sandwich”, adobo sauce.
Hats down. Amazing. Although the menu says "roasted" monkfish, I suspect some sous vide action must have taken place. Monkfish is usually a bit chewy, but this was so succulent, and almost flaky. And on the side was daikon radish sandwich. Holy cow, menu says mustard green, but I bet the green was actually daikon leaves! Finally someone in the Western world found the depth and breadth of root vegetable leaves!! It complimented the simple fish so well.
Monkfish porn!
I especially loved the wine glass stem. It was extremely thin, and elegant.
Desserts: A bit disappointing. I got the banana special. Can't remember exactly what everything was, but it wasn't spectacular.
Sorbet. Passion fruit, raspberry, coconut, and something basil (yellow one).
These portions were too large. For a top notch restaurant like Le Bernardin, these portions were a bit too "American."
While I was in the bathroom, our server asked Nate if this was a special occasion, and he told him it was our anniversary, birthday, and green card, etc. etc.
I get two occasions in one dinner?
Petit four.
This is one of the best seafood restaurants, I agree. The techniques, flavors, and presentation were all so meticulous and well-thought out.
Here comes my disagreement with Le Bernardin's 4 stars.
A. Decor: I felt like I was at a big law firm's executive dining room from the 80s. I think I saw
Patrick Bateman in the corner table.
B. The tables: I don't think they want just two people to come. Almost all the tables were for at least four people. We were seated at large four-person table, next to each other, facing the serving area. It was weird. I know some people like to sit next to each other, but I much prefer facing each other.
C. Service: Too many staff. I had at least three different waiters come to ask if we had questions about the menu, two sommeliers to ask about what wine we want, and an additional two people who took our order. I like a waiter, not multiple waiters hovering around my table. I also like the entire table to be served simultaneously, not one by one. One of my favorite restaurant is
Gramercy Tavern, and even if you go with eight people, they magically bring 8 waiters to pur your food at the same time. I like that.
D. Timing: too fast. When you are spending that kind of money, you want to indulge in every minute, and slowly enjoy your food. Some places are way too slow, but this place was way too fast. Basically from placing the order to the first course to arrive, it was about five minutes. Also once we are done eating, they came to take plates. Then the next course comes within five minutes. Our four-course meal took only about 1.5 hours. We sat at 8:30pm, and left a little after 10:00pm. We were done with main course by 9:25pm. That is too fast. I know this restaurant has three seatings a night, but it wasn't that crowded, and the bar area was basically empty. I felt rushed. $250 for 90 minutes. We spent $2.77 a minute being there.
E. Charger plates: not necessary. Sure, the silver edge was cute and everything, but as soon as customers sit down, they took them away anyway, so what's the point? It felt like an executive dining hall.
I also can't help wondering about fish culture in America. I've seen a lot of people at sushi restaurants, sticking to boring rolls with spicy tuna and avocado, instead of nigiri or sashimi. I feel many Americans are still afraid of raw fish, and they often choose "safe" dishes at Japanese restaurants. Yet, Le Bernardin serves almost everything raw, or nearly raw, and people keep coming and boasting about all the dishes.
Why? Is it because it's Eric Ripert? Celebrity chef? The reputation of the restaurant? Exclusivity? This level of seafood can be found at many Japanese restaurants in the city, but many reviews are still, "it was too raw for me." What's the difference between super fresh seafood at Japanese restaurants and super fresh seafood at Le Bernardin? Absolutely nothing. Plus, if you are willing to spend $250 a person, you can swim in uni, or eat fatty tuna until your nose starts to bleed at any decent Japanese restaurant.
MOTO Review: ★★ and half
Very refreshing, especially watermelon gazpacho was sweet, tangy, and appetizing.
First course: Flash-marinated sea scallop, sweet and sour grapes, extra virgin olive oil-yuzu vinaigrette.
Hats down. Amazing. Although the menu says "roasted" monkfish, I suspect some sous vide action must have taken place. Monkfish is usually a bit chewy, but this was so succulent, and almost flaky. And on the side was daikon radish sandwich. Holy cow, menu says mustard green, but I bet the green was actually daikon leaves! Finally someone in the Western world found the depth and breadth of root vegetable leaves!! It complimented the simple fish so well.
Monkfish porn!
Desserts: A bit disappointing. I got the banana special. Can't remember exactly what everything was, but it wasn't spectacular.
Sorbet. Passion fruit, raspberry, coconut, and something basil (yellow one).
These portions were too large. For a top notch restaurant like Le Bernardin, these portions were a bit too "American."
While I was in the bathroom, our server asked Nate if this was a special occasion, and he told him it was our anniversary, birthday, and green card, etc. etc.
I get two occasions in one dinner?
Petit four.
I also can't help wondering about fish culture in America. I've seen a lot of people at sushi restaurants, sticking to boring rolls with spicy tuna and avocado, instead of nigiri or sashimi. I feel many Americans are still afraid of raw fish, and they often choose "safe" dishes at Japanese restaurants. Yet, Le Bernardin serves almost everything raw, or nearly raw, and people keep coming and boasting about all the dishes.
Why? Is it because it's Eric Ripert? Celebrity chef? The reputation of the restaurant? Exclusivity? This level of seafood can be found at many Japanese restaurants in the city, but many reviews are still, "it was too raw for me." What's the difference between super fresh seafood at Japanese restaurants and super fresh seafood at Le Bernardin? Absolutely nothing. Plus, if you are willing to spend $250 a person, you can swim in uni, or eat fatty tuna until your nose starts to bleed at any decent Japanese restaurant.
MOTO Review: ★★ and half
Comments (20)
Did they misspell “Anniversary”?
I really used to love reading Umamimart articles. After this post I am seriously considering unsubscribing….
“don’t like cilantro”, "dont like fennel’, “sauce was too green”, “two many waiters”, “tables are too big”. These are not valid comments…they are comments, but not if you are planning on writing a review about a 4-star restaurant, make an argument for it…just dont say you dont like things therefore they dont deserve it.
Disappointing.
JB, wow, good catch.
Anna, thanks for your comment. Let me clarify some points here. First of all, many people have food preference, and cilantro, fennel, green sauce dishes weren’t mine. I chose mine based on my food preference and they were superb. And I did say their food was excellent.
Mind you, many write ups, even the ones on NYT is pretty subjective. Sam Sifton, as well as Pete Wells, from NYT gives 4 stars, hence everyone needs to agree with their reviews, and when I dare to object 4 stars, I have to make readers believe why Sifton/Wells reviews are bullshit? I strongly disagree. They do not have to worry about budget, and whenever they “secretly” visit the restaurant, staff knows, hence they get extra awesome service, food, everything. They are treated like gods, of course they have nothing but to boast.
When you go to a restaurant where there’s no place for a party of 2, and you were made do on 4 people table, don’t you feel a little uncomfortable? I don’t know who you are, but when 3 different waiters kept asking the same question, if we had questions about menu, I felt “who’s my waiter?”, and couldn’t help but questioning their professionalism. Not even at restaurants, but if you are asked the same question multiple times, don’t you get annoyed, especially if you are paying super premium amount of money?
Again, food reviews are ALWAYS subjective, since everyone’s taste bud is different. And restaurant reviews always consist of food quality, ambiance, decor, service, and I hereby defend the validity of my comments.
“Plus, if you are willing to spend $250 a person, you can swim in uni, or eat fatty tuna until your nose starts to bleed at any decent Japanese restaurant.” AMEN.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for reading and subscribing to Umami Mart, and taking the time to comment. We always like to hear what our readers have to say.
I think Moto’s review was absolutely legitimate which is why it’s on here. He is right — if you are paying $250 a head at a restaurant like this, you want it to be pretty much perfect. Dining experiences are not just about food. I always say it’s about 50% food, 25% service, 25% ambiance. You could have the best chef plating the nicest dishes, but if the latter two are lacking, it can completely throw off your experience of a restaurant. It’s a fine balance, but all of these elements must align in order to have a great dining experience, worthy of “4 stars”.
Moto was in this camp. He liked Ripert’s food and understands his talent and deep understanding of technique for seafood. His dislikes of fennel and cilantro are silly, but he is not deducting “stars” for these elements.
His A thru E arguments of why he does not agree with the restaurant’s 4-stars are very well thought out and valid. The restaurant decor is indeed a throwback to the 80s Wall Street boom and power-lunches. It is cold, and uninviting and certainly not a place for a romantic dinner for two to celebrate a special occasion, and dropping hundreds of dollars.
I wrote about Le Bernardin back in 2009. Our critiques were pretty similar — good food, nice technique, but stuffy and not WOWing, innovative, or inviting.
http://www.umamimart.com/2009/02/LE-BERNARDIN-NYC/
The only four-star chef in the states that I really like is Jean Georges. I always think he is doing innovative, playful things with food and his restaurants are always fresh. He really takes risks, and you won’t feel ripped off at the end of the meal.
I thought French Laundry was a total dud, and that was $500/head. While the food did not excite us, great service could have saved it. But the service was horrible (SO snobby and condescending) and we left severely disappointed — 5 hours later. We won’t go back there again.
Manresa, in Los Gatos did not have the greatest food, but I do recall the attentiveness of service and nice wine people. And they did walk out one by one to place the dishes at one time. These are the sort of details Moto appreciates, I gather.
Overall, I’d say the four/five-star system of rating restaurants per the NY Times, Michelin, etc are becoming outdated themselves, like many of the restaurants that have the highest ranking. I have been to many of these restaurants, and in the end, it is a matter of trust you have in the critic who led you there in the first place. I do trust Moto’s taste implicitly, which is why a critique like this is on Umami Mart.
All in all, dining is a matter of personal tastes, expectations and experience. As someone who grew up in the restaurant business, and cares deeply about service, I know how difficult it is to balance all the elements to create the optimal dining experience. Again, I think Moto’s chief complaints about Le Bernardin are from service, not of the food. All of it matters.
Again, thanks for reading.
Kayoko
I don’t think they misspelled Anniversary. I think it’s one of those A’s that look like this: a
Paging Ricky Lee: I’d like you to weigh in here please.
You mean Ricky Lake?
I’ve never been to Le Bernadin, but I totally understand what Moto is saying. When you’re paying 200-500 a head for dinner there are high expectations for service in addition to the quality of the food. This is fine dining, its usually reserved for special occasions, unless you ballin.
Bad service could totally ruin an excellent meal. For example recently I ate L’Agape Substance in Paris, there was a large party drenched in Drakrar Noir and Channel No 5 that made it impossible to hear our server describe dishes, nor smell them. Also for some odd reason our silverware was not changed after each course, maybe like every 2-3 courses it was changed and this is a 16+ course meal, leaving bits of the previous course to be enjoyed with the next I guess. While the food was excellent, I felt it could have been dramatically better not tasting my amuse’s grapefruit essence on my piece of foie, allowed us and everyone else to move away from that perfume party,or hear what what was the component of each course, or told not to eat the rind of the cave aged raw milk cheese because it could kill you or make you violently ill(thanks to the gentleman next to us warning us).
FYI I like Sifton alot more than Wells. Look at Well’s review for Neta makes me want smack him when I see him. Since is when is paying 135 for sushi omakase consisting of shiso shirasu chahan, okayu, eel avocado roll, spicy salmon good value?
FYI My wife’s coworker dreams of swimming in natto
Thanks for commenting Ricky. I know you eat fancy often (baller) so I wanted your opinion.
I dream of swimming in natto in a fancy restaurant in Paris, drenched with Chanel #5.