Onikoroshi “Demon Slayer” Sake (November 2024)

This month's Onikoroshi sakes enjoyed at our latest staff outing at Hog Island Oyster in Marshall, CA

When someone walks in the door looking for sake, I usually ask them, “What kind of sake are you looking for?” One of the most common answers I get is, “Something dry.” And these customers are in luck because there are a lot of dry sakes to choose from. However, it is important to define some of the dry styles that exist within the sake world. While you can sometimes determine the dryness of a sake by its Sake Meter Value (SMV), which measures the density of sake in comparison to water, the number can be deceiving if it isn’t on the extreme sides of the spectrum. Most sakes hover in the SMV range of -2 to +8. Anything lower than -2 will likely taste pretty sweet. While anything +8 or above will taste dry. But there are so many other factors that affect how we perceive dryness that more often than not, the SMV alone will not give you the whole picture. 

I’ve found that with wine and cocktail drinkers, sakes that are considered in the common SMV range of -2 to +8 still get perceived as dry. I don’t think it’s a secret that our palettes in the U.S. have a higher tolerance for sugars than in Japan. Therefore, it’s common for me to pour a flight of sakes at the bar for a patron who wants a dry sake and they end up choosing the least dry sake in the lineup as their favorite. When a sake is advertising themselves as dry in Japan, it’s going to be +8 or above – meaning it’s not messing around and will be dry, sharp, and often higher in acidity.

This month, we are exploring Onikoroshi sakes. Historically, this type of sake was considered to be so dry that even the toughest guy on the block would get drunk. But that didn’t sound romantic enough, so instead it was referred to as a sake that is so dry it would slay demons, or Onikoroshi. With time, it wasn’t just about the dryness or the increased SMV but about how a sake with heightened acidity would pair with foods that are heavier in flavor (typically in the winter) – highlighting a clean ending that is often referred to as its sharpness. You will find that both of the sakes this month exhibit dryness but also have a pleasantly clean ending that I would describe more as refreshing than sharp.

One of the main things that sake-makers do to make a dry sake is to let the fermentation go longer until all the sugar is consumed. Temperatures can also be increased for a more rigorous ferment. Yeast and rice selection can also affect the dryness of a sake. Please read my interview with Fumiaki Matsuura, owner and toji of Matsuura Brewery about what he does to achieve a dryer style of sake. 

When a brewer makes a dry sake, they want you to drink it with food. Matsuura says, “It enriches the flavor of your food and cleanses the fat in your mouth.” It’s safe to say that Gumi members are enthusiastic about food and drink, and exploring these two Onikoroshi sakes will be a celebration of both. Kanpai!