What is Onikoroshi Sake? Interview with Fumiaki, Matsuura, Owner and Toji of Matsuura Shuzo

I first heard about Matsuura Shuzo in our friend Hannah Kirshner’s book Water, Wood, and Wild Things. Kirshner lives in the same town as Matsuura Shuzo and staged at the brewery for a season (photo below). In her book, she described the tiny team at the brewery and their commitment to making hand-made sake in the hot spring town of Yamanaka, in Ishikawa Prefecture. At the time, their sakes were not being exported to the U.S. and it wasn’t until 2022 that their sakes were available here. One of my favorites in their line up is the Shishi no Sato Chokara Junmai. I asked Fumiaki Matsuuura (photo above), the 14th Generation owner and toji (brewmaster) about the brewery and the process behind their Onikoroshi sake. He bases his philosophy on the teachings of the Nanbu Toji Guild in Iwate prefecture. As a self-professed lover of food, he makes sake with mild flavors that highlight the meal.

Yoko: Can you tell me about your brewery?

Matsuura: We are close to the sea and mountains, and blessed with fresh ingredients, so we  create sake that complements meals that bring out the flavor of the ingredients.

We also take advantage of the characteristics of ultra-soft water that flows in our region by limiting the water absorption in the rice and leaving as much of the water in the sake.

We have been brewing Shishi no Sato (Lion Dance), the local sake at Yamanaka Onsen (hot springs) since 1772. We named our sake Shishi no Sato after the image of women coming out of the hot springs with yukata (robes) on their heads, who resembled lions in a lion dance.

Yoko: Please tell us about the concept and application of your Chokara sake?

Matsuura: This ultra-spicy junmai is designed to have a harmonious flavor, and you can enjoy a refreshing sharpness rather than a spicy one. It enriches the flavor of your food and cleanses away the fat in your mouth. You can enjoy the change in taste in a wide range of temperatures, including cold, room temperature, and lukewarm (especially in the winter).

When sipped alone, the flavor is mellow and slightly acidic, but when paired with food, it becomes a mealtime sake that you will want to keep drinking.

If we were to compare it to baseball, it would be like a ball pitched a tad high that could potentially become a home run if paired with food.

Yoko: I love the demon on the label. Can you tell me about what makes this an Onikoroshi?

Matsuura: We decided to use Mr. Iwao Akiyama’s Santouka “Oni” print label for our super spicy junmai sake.

The degree of dryness differs depending on the sake brewery, but we define super dry as +8 or higher on the sake meter.

We brew this ultra-dry sake seeking a harmonious balance of flavors. Rather than being just dry, it has a sharp, refreshing taste that washes away the fat from food and resets the palate. While having it chilled enhances the crisp finish, having it hot brings out more of the umami flavors of the sake and is perfect for winter nights.

Yoko: What do you do differently production-wise to achieve dryness?

Matsuura: We add water to the moromi several times to ensure that the yeast, which plays a central role in fermentation, stays healthy for as long as possible.

We also use Kumamoto yeast, which is said to be a thoroughbred yeast with strong fermentation power, from the Kumamoto Sake Brewing Research Institute, and try to cultivate healthy and strong yeast mash. In addition, the spiciness needs to be balanced with the acidity, so we intentionally use foamy yeast to create a lively acidity.

Yoko: What are some of your favorite food pairings with this sake?

Matsuura: Grilled meat dishes (yakitori, yakiniku) or sushi (it goes well with vinegared rice).

Yoko: What does it say on the label?

Matsuura: “Today ended with no problems, I’m just going to have a good time drinking’’ 

Here here! Thank you Matsuura-san!